By the PoolTableExpert.co.uk – The UK's Home Pool Table Authority Team · Updated May 2026 · Independent, reader-supported

How to Recover a Pool Table at Home UK – DIY Cloth Replacement Guide

Re-felting a pool table is an achievable DIY project, but it's not trivial. If you're handy with basic tools and patient with detail work, you can save £150–£400 against professional re-felting costs. That said, the quality of your result depends heavily on table condition, cloth choice, and how carefully you execute the work. Here's what you need to know.

When to Re-Felt Your Pool Table

Pool cloth doesn't wear out uniformly. The break area, where the cue ball impacts, deteriorates first. If you're seeing pilling, a worn shine, or inconsistent ball roll in specific zones, re-felting extends your table's life significantly. Most home tables need re-felting every 5–10 years, depending on usage.

If your cloth is torn, stained beyond cleaning, or the bed is warped or damaged underneath, DIY re-felting won't fix those problems. Warped slate requires professional attention. Deep stains sometimes vanish under new cloth; others suggest the wood beneath has absorbed damage that won't improve.

Essential Tools and Materials

You'll need:

• Staple gun (electric or manual; pneumatic is faster but requires a compressor)
• Staples (¼-inch, 1000-count box minimum — you'll use more than expected)
• Sharp utility knife (fresh blade essential; dull blades tear cloth)
• Spray adhesive (3M Super 77 or equivalent, designed for fabric)
• Knee pads (you'll spend hours crouched)
• Straightedge or metal ruler (helps position cloth evenly)
• Cloth measuring tape (soft tape, not rigid)
• New pool cloth (worsted wool or wool-blend; 100% synthetic is cheaper but inferior)

For the UK, measure your table precisely before ordering cloth. Standard 6-foot home tables need approximately 8 feet × 5 feet; 7-foot tables, roughly 9 feet × 6 feet. Order slightly oversized. Suppliers like Peradon or local snooker shops sell cloth by the metre and can advise on exact quantities.

Removing Old Cloth

Start by removing the rail cushions. Most are held with bolts underneath; a few are glued. Take photos before disassembling—reassembly goes faster with reference.

Remove the staples holding the old cloth. A staple remover, flat screwdriver, or small pry bar works. This is tedious. Work systematically along one rail at a time. Don't rush; you can slip and gouge the wood underneath.

Once staples are out, peel the cloth away slowly. If it's adhered with spray adhesive, it'll resist. Keep peeling—stop only if you're damaging the slate or wood.

Clean the bed thoroughly with a soft cloth and mild solvent (mineral spirits or white spirit). Remove old adhesive residue and dust. Dried adhesive can prevent the new cloth from sitting flat. Inspect for damage. Gouges in the slate or splintered wood should be repaired now.

Installing New Cloth

Lay out the new cloth on a clean surface and let it relax for an hour if it was rolled or folded. This reduces wrinkles.

Positioning: Place the table's cloth-side-down footprint on the reverse of your cloth. Mark the centre with a pencil. This step prevents crooked installation and wastes yards of cloth if done wrong. Measure twice.

Adhesive application: Spray adhesive is your friend here, but it's unforgiving. Apply it in light, even coats to the slate bed, not the cloth. Don't oversaturate—excess adhesive creates bubbles and prevents smooth laying. A light coat that tacks in 30–60 seconds is ideal. Follow the product instructions for drying times.

Laying the cloth: Starting from the centre of one long edge, lay the cloth down smoothly, pressing gently as you move outward. Work toward the corners, smoothing out wrinkles as you go. This isn't a single action—you'll lift and reposition several times. Be patient.

Once the bed is covered with no bubbles, position the cloth over the rails. The overlap should be even on all sides, typically 2–3 inches.

Stapling Around the Rails

This is where precision matters. Staple at the centre of each rail first (one per rail), pulling the cloth tight as you staple. Check that the cloth sits evenly across the bed from all angles. Adjust if needed.

Work outward from the centre on each rail, stapling every 2 inches. Pull the cloth tight but not aggressively—too much tension creates dish-shaped problem areas. Maintain consistent pull pressure.

Corners are crucial. Fold the cloth neatly at each corner, creating a hospital corner effect. Trim excess cloth with your sharp knife before stapling. Sloppy corners look unprofessional and catch during play.

Stapling the Cushion Rails

Cushion rails (the angled bits under the bumpers) require cloth too, if your table design includes them. Repeat the stapling process—short bursts, even tension, neat corners.

Reattaching Cushions

Once cloth is secured, reattach the cushions in reverse order of removal. Bolt connections should be snug but not over-torqued—you can crack acrylic bumpers. Check that the cloth underneath doesn't bunch as you tighten bolts.

Common Mistakes

• Cloth on cloth: Applying spray adhesive between old and new cloth instead of removing the old completely. Your new cloth will ripple and bubble.
• Over-stretching: Excessive tension creates a dish shape and makes the table play uneven.
• Dull blade: A blunt utility knife tears cloth instead of cutting clean lines. Change blades frequently.
• Uneven stapling: Variable pull tension creates visible bumps. Consistent, methodical work produces better results.

When to Call a Professional

If your table is antique, valuable, or the slate is damaged, professional re-felting is worth the cost. Professionals have specialist tools (heat guns, stretchers) that create superior results. If you're uncomfortable working on expensive equipment, outsourcing removes that risk entirely.

Your first recovery takes 6–8 hours. Second and subsequent jobs take 4–5 as you develop muscle memory.